- ICN-2P32-N as a part number

- UPC: 30781087069128

- Clan: Centium

The Advance brand

voltage of 120/277#

To replace the fluorescent T8 tubes I had in the garage, I bought Philips T8 LED tubes. I wanted to switch to LED lights as winter approached to avoid the poor performance that fluorescent bulbs had in the cold. Unfortunately, after I switched the switch, there was a 5 second delay in the LED lights. Because the Philips compatible ballast document available demonstrated that these worked, I purchased these ballasts. They do, and they are brilliant and instantly on! The bad packaging was the only problem I had. Ballast number one has a ding in it. Clearly cosmetic simply because it was effective

connection of parallel lamps, potted and enclosed, Surge protection internally

meets the consumer restrictions of FCC Part 18 (Class B), meets the requirements of ANSI standard C82.11 for ballasts and ANSI standard C62.41 for transient protection.

Equivalent to: Howard E2/32IS/120SC; Keystone KTEB-232LBF-1-TP-PIC-EV; Aspen VE232120HIP, VE232120MIP; and Sola E-758-F-232-

This stopped the buzzing once I replaced my old T12 ballast with it. If the wiring appears to be different, it could be a little unsettling for anyone who is unfamiliar with switching from a T12 to a T8. I admit that I had some apprehension. I found the solution I was seeking for after a quick Google search. On one side of my T12 ballast, there were two blue wires, two red wires, and two yellow wires that connected to each bulb. Combining the two blue wires from the fixture with one blue wire from the ballast, the two red wires with the other blue wire from the ballast, and the two yellow wires with the one red wire from the ballast was the trick in this case. Nothing complicated there because the black and white for power was the same. For clarification, a picture of the old T12 ballast's wiring diagram is included.

Equivalent to: Osram-Sylvania QTP4x32T8/UNV ISN-SC, Philips-Advance REL-4P32-SC, REB4P32N,

Keystone KTEB-432LBF-1-TP-PIC, KTEB-432RIS-1-TP-SL, and KTEB-432RIS-1-TP are comparable.

Save money by purchasing the 10 separately packaged 2P20135 carton of units; Utilize the 5P20135 to save the most.

equivalent to General Electric GE-432-120-N, Universal B432I120RH-A, and B432I120RESA

Comparable to: Sola E-758-F-432-SC, Howard E4/32IS/120SC#

It was a good opportunity to switch to electronic ballasts and t-8 bulbs because my previous ballasts were worn out and a few bulbs had burned out. In my four/four-lamp drop ceiling fixtures, I changed 2 magnetic ballasts with one of each of them, and what a difference! looked up a thorough cross reference on the Robertson website. Even if some of the bulbs take a minute to attain even light in the centers, they are instantly on and nearly full brightness, and they are quiet (although we don't experience the same problem at work with the same bulbs). Using 32 watt bulbs instead of the traditional 40 watt T-12 lights results in a 20% power savings. These were the ideal size and had the same color coding as the previous magnetic ballast.For the record, I use the same Sylvania 6500K color spectrum bulb for color accuracy in my home workshop that I use in my print shop, although cool harsh light might not be to everyone's taste or purpose. This bulb is whiter than sunlight.

I had a lot of T12 bulbs, so rather than switching to T8 bulbs, I choose to purchase these T12 ballasts. I changed the ballasts in the two light fixtures that had buzzing and flickering lights as soon as I got my ballasts from Amazon today. I relocated the ballast so that the cables could connect to all four light outlets. At order to secure the ballast, I had to drill two tiny holes in the top of the fixture. Since there was a short jumper wire connecting two of the receptacles, I removed those two receptacles, took the old wires out of the wire holes, and inserted the new wires straight into the wire holes without using wire nuts. Connecting two red wires to one and two blue wires to the other, I then snapped the outlets back into position. The two yellow wires, which attach to the opposing side, were wire-nut attached. The white wire connects to the switch wire, and the black wire to the power wire.When tested, there is absolutely no noise and the lights turn on right away. The illumination is as strong as ever. Great!The fixtures I have are eight years old and are diamond plate light fixtures from Home Depot. The image displays the two outdated ballasts, the additional wire that was cut, two of the four new ballasts I bought, and of course the finished lights. :-)If something happens to my ballasts, I'll update this review.

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My four-tube, 48" residential fixture's original ballast could not be found in a straight replacement. It was a discontinued Advance Transformer REL-4P32-RH-TP ballast. I looked through the Phillips specification manuals and discovered that the size and functionality of this item are exactly the same. The "REL" version only accepts 120VAC input, whereas the "ICN" version accepts voltages between 120 and 277VAC. (Maintenance personnel can easily stock just one model of ballast for numerous types of installations thanks to this universal input. While many industrial plants are supplied with 480VAC three-phase (277VAC phase-to-neutral), homes often have split-phase 240VAC (120VAC phase-to-neutral).

I recently put in this new ballast. A 20-year-old ballast that died last week was replaced by me. The process of replacement was really simple. All the relevant colored wires were simply stripped and twisted together: two reds to two reds, two blues to two blues, two yellows to two yellows, two blacks to two blacks, and two whites to two whites. I changed a Universal MagneTek 439-L-TC-P type ballast. The old and new ballast are depicted in the image. The new one only weighed 14 oz compared to the old one's 3 lbs. 1 oz. I'm hoping that this simply indicates that technology has advanced, but I'm guessing it indicates that things aren't created the same way they used to be. The new one fit exactly in the old space in the fixture despite being smaller (9.5" long, 1.75" wide, and 1.25" deep vs. [old] 9.5" long, 2.25" wide, and 1.5" deep). Instant on when I flipped the switch! This replacement is what I advise. I'll be content if it lasts 10 years, but I hope it lasts another 20.

Imported

120-277V

None

Digital Ballast

Lamp connection in series

Scheduled Start

Smartmate#

Quite expensive, but I didn't have to order a case like I would have if I found them locally. They perform exactly as they should and were intended to be replacements. Simple wiring diagrams and connections that even a non-electrician could complete:-)

Replaces Robertson 000753 ISD296T12MVIP and is now offered in a 10 ea. ROBERTSON 2P20158 Quik-Pak

Philips S-275-S-TP, R2E75STP, R2E60STP, R2E75STP, RSM175STP, V2E60STP, V2E75STP, and VSM175STP magnetic equivalent

Electronic equivalents for Osram QTP2X96T12UNVIS, QT2X96/120IS, and QT2X96/277IS, Espen VE275MVHIP, Philips ICN-2P60-SC, and REL-2P60-S

General Electric GE-260-IS-MV-N, Keystone KTEB-275-UV-TP-PIC-SL, and Valmont E296PI120G11 electronic equivalents

Osram MB1X96IS120, MB1X96IS277, and MB2X96IS120 magnetic equivalents, as well as Universal B260I277RH#

The new electronic ballasts are non-flickering, silent, tiny, and lighter than the older magnetic type (not to mention more efficient). Despite having a wiring schematic on the ballast, the new ballasts are simpler than the previous type and require fewer connections, which may confound the uninitiated. The simplest way to connect the red wire from the ballast to the BBWW bundle is to cut all of the black and white wires off to equal lengths, strip them, and then assume that the fixture has normal "cutout" contacts on one end (one has two white wires, the other has two black wires, and the main AC feed goes to one of each of these). One blue wire from the ballast is connected to each of the red and blue wires that are already present at the fixture's opposite end. Naturally, the AC feed's black and white wires go to the ballast's black and white, and the feed's greed goes to the fixture casing.

Height: 1.1810 Length: 9.4690 Width: 1.6810 Ballast Factor: 0.88

Four-light T-8 ballast

Quicktronic Professional is a family brand manufactured by OSRAM, a Sylvania company.

Product is shipped safely by being packaged in bulk.#

I bought a number of these to replace the fluorescent lighting in our laundry area, garage, and master closet. Although they were pretty brilliant, the 48" LED bulbs I initially used in our closet and one garage fixture only lasted a few days and were extremely expensive. Since then, I have upgraded to T8 bulbs and rewired the garage fixture using one of these back to a flourescent system. Very bright and instantly on, compared to the older fluorescent lights, which were much dimmer, would flicker a lot before turning on, and always contained magnetic waves. Since I reused the tombstones, rewiring requires a little bit of McGiver knowledge because it took some engineering to get them to make good contact with the wires. There is a simple wiring schematic included. Since each fixture has four bulbs, I replaced two ballasts with this one. What a difference between the laundry room and the garage. Sunglasses are nearly a need for my wife's master closet. I did swap out the warmer 2700K bulbs with 5000K ones. However, if you buy the bulbs locally, as I did, they will likely be better quality. I got a sizable box of bulbs from Amazon, and several of them were damaged when they were delivered. I just contacted Amazon and returned the entire box for a complete refund because they are renowned for their customer service. Thank you, Amazon, for making me a repeat customer.